You have the same BM that I have but a different boiler. Click to expand Thinking back, you are right. I only used the immersion for hot water so that I could have a shower.

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Its starting to look a lot like Christmas! Gents I have a Potterton 60F Prima balanced flue gas boiler that keeps cutting out. Pressing and holding the reset button will get the flame back but as soon as I take my finger off the button it cuts out.

The boiler at this point is only warm however and is certainly not over-hot. This is an intermittent problem since sometimes the boiler will fire get up to temperature, heat the sytem and then cut out no light not even a pilot light. This is fine and I expect this behaviour.

When it cuts out due to an overheating issue maybe a stat the blue pilot light stays on. I think the fan is still running too. I know the central heating is still calling for heat but the boiler will not fire. Pump is still running when the boiler goes out. I have recent drained the CHS down and was wondering if there is air in the boiler and this is being heated and causing the overheat thermometer to cut in.

I have bled all the rads all hot. I bled the CH pump unscrewed cap and pulled value till water came out. There is an AAV in boiler cupboard. I also bled the manual vent in the loft till water came out. Is there anyway to bleed the boiler or confirm that it is air in it? Although I have recently drained system this prob has occurred before but not as persistent.

Is there any way to confirm it is overheat thermometer. I have read the instruction guide and feel I could tackle replacing this although I only want to do this if it is the correct diagnosis. I even timed between cut-outs to see if it some air travelling around the system. I have opened all the rads and then closed them once bled to the correct temp TSV. The rad in the bathroom is open all the time.

Sorry for the long post - wanted to spend the time to give you the full SP.


Potterton Prima 30B Manuals & User Guides

The fan would start then stop, start then stop and keep repeating this for some time before the boiler would fire up. In the case of this Prima 80F the fan had been cycling on and off every 4 or 5 seconds. The fan was running, but very slowly. Because the fan was running a long way under speed even though the supply voltage was fine, we changed the fan. Potterton Prima 80F boiler with multiple faults For more than a year this boiler had been slow to complete the ignition cycle and fire up Above and below, both sides of the Prima F air pressure switch APS The new fan ran much faster but promptly started cycling on and off again, every few seconds, without completing the ignition cycle. The APS is designed to prove that the fan is operating correctly; that it has cleared any residual unburnt gas from the combustion chamber and is providing the right amount of combustion air before the spark ignition starts.


Potterton Prima 30F, 40F, 50F, 60F


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